Please NOTE with the Wet Okole's you must place them in the seat back NOT the Seat bottom)Ģ5 feet (appox.) of 16 Awg wire - 16 AWG "AUTO ZIP" WIRE | (used for power runs to the sub-controllers and to the heating elements)Ģ5 Feet (appox.) of 20 Awg - 20 AWG RED/BLACK AUTO ZIP CORD | (used for the thermistor, left and right switches and to make up harnesses) These will get placed next to the "Seat Back" heating elements. (This is only the thermistor you will need to solder this to appox 30 inches of 20 AWG zip wire and use heat shrink tubing to secure the setup. (Please note there is one connector that I can not find, in place of using a connector I used 4 repair wires noted above with heat shrink tubing to secure them to the sub-controller.) I believe that connector is part of the toyota heating element and not offered as a single part.ĭigi-Key - 490-4668-ND (Manufacturer - NTSD1WB203FPB50) This write up will be for using Wet Okole heated seat covers with the Toyota switch and sub-controller.ġ x wire harness - 82223-35060 (used to connect the switched to the truck, Note if you have a Trail this will be a plug and play part (you will only need to cut 4 wires in this harness), if you have an SR5 you will need to cut this harness up and use the connectors to make your own harness, this item is only $14)Ģ x Sub-controllers - 87501-60030 (one for each seat)Ģ x sub-controller connectors - 90980-10797ġ6 x Repair wire - 82998-12340 (used for above connector and sub-controller) Since a few people have already contacted me for a parts list I figured I will start with that. I am going to need to do it in a few post. Ok it's going to take me a few day to do the full write up so please bear with me. I did not have the right colors to make everything match, I'll do that later, green to red is hot ac, the wire in the 6 pin block under it is yellow, brown is ground.Step 1 (Parts, some notes, disclosure, warnings and skills needed) To run the DC/HID setup I simply plug in the harness I built instead. ![]() Here you can see the modification to allow the factory AC to be disconnected, if I hook the connectors together, the bike is factory wired AC to lights. So you can pop out those two pins and install them in a new female connector, then wire 2 new pins to a male connector to go back into the factory 6 pin block. The factory uses a 6 pin molex, back side has a yellow/brown wire combo, front side changes to green/brown, dont ask me why, I think they did that just to confuse me. These molex connectors intercept the ground/ac line, it's a 6 pin terminal I reran those 2 wires into molex connectors so I can go from factory AC healdight/tailight to DC by simply plugging the new connectors in. Radio shack 50v 25amp bridge rectifier, this converts the single yellow/red wire from AC to DCĢ pair. Radio shack 1000uf capacitor across high beam hot to ground, this stabilizes voltage to the relay that moves the magnet Got everything working, now I just need to trim and refit wires to make everything compact enough to fit under the mask, my goal is to keep the factory setup intact so I can swap out a regular bulb if the HID fails and I'm on a ride, I carry an extra bulb all the timeĭDM tuning code eliminator aka capacitor (this removes flicker) ![]() If you're just running off the stator at idle I don't think there's enough output to fire the lamp. I think with an HID you almost have to have a battery in the circuit as hid's have a very high starting currnent. It's a kludgy way to go but if you decide to try that you will want to use a full wave bridge rectifier. If you add a capacitor it might be ok but most likely the voltage will be higher than 14.6 which could be bad news for the HID. OK for a fan or an incandescent light but probably not real good with an HID that has electronics. ![]() You can do that but the regulation will be very poor and since there's no capacitor or battery in the circuit the voltage will be very noisy. Don't remember if it was full wave, but it worked for him at a small cost with little work. He searched out the wires for lighting and installed it creating a second 12DC source for his lighting. A Thumpertalk member went to Radio Shack and bought a basic 12v.
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